CEFIRO A31 "RB26 PROJECT"

[A31067]

สำหรับท่านที่มีใจรัก
CEFIRO A31 RB26

เจออะไรที่น่าสนใจและเป็นประโยชน์
จะเอามานำเสนอครับ

*กระทู้นี้ไม่มีนัดกินเหล้าหรือนัดเที่ยว ไม่ใช่แนวครับ*

เปิดงานด้วยรูปฝา26สีสวยๆ:coolly-0010:

*ตอบอันไหนที่ถามมาและตอบไปแล้ว หรือ เข้ามาคุยเล่นๆ หรือ นอกประเด็น ขออนุญาตลบเลย เพื่อกระทู้จะได้ไม่ยาว และ ไร้สาระครับ*:coolly-0033:

 

[A31067]

Re: CEFIRO A31 RB26

รูปฝาสวยๆ:coolly-0010:

 

[A31067]

Re: CEFIRO A31 RB26

วันนี้ Dr.DONUT
เอารถเครื่อง 2JZGTE 6MT
เครื่องประกอบทั้งตัวโดย HKS THAILAND
ลูกสูบเคลือบเซรามิค
ก้านสูบ EAGLE
น๊อตภายในเครื่อง ARP
บาล๊านซ์ ข้อเหวี่ยง
แคม272
ฝาทำเต็ม HKS STEP2
คลัช OS 3แผ่น

เตรียมยกออกเพื่อวาง RB26
STEP RB26 เกียร์ 2J 6MT:coolly-0010:

 

[A31067]

Re: CEFIRO A31 RB26

RB26 คันแดง
-เดินสายไฟเครื่องเสร็จแล้ว พรุ่งนี้ส่งทำแอร์ แล้วมาเก็บงานเกจ์วัด ถ่ายน้ำมันเครื่อง+กรองรอบ2 เย็นๆจูนE MANAGE:coolly-0033:

2JZGTE 6MT
-มาจอดวาง RB26:coolly-0033:

 

[A31067]

Re: CEFIRO A31 RB26

:coolly-0010::coolly-0010::coolly-0010:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yAycwq3Lurw
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=w14LWDum4rs
[ame="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jZkfT7CmygM"]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jZkfT7CmygM
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=D_GxEfGEg18
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VMj-8PSHlQ4
เสียง:coolly-0033:
[ame="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2owjEZvS4bs"]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2owjEZvS4bs
[ame="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GiKnHRlzh2s"]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GiKnHRlzh2s
[ame="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KqLkOJiKbWQ"]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KqLkOJiKbWQ
[ame="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cYLM7h94t3Y"]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cYLM7h94t3Y
[ame="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XqnebwBtyHw"]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XqnebwBtyHw
[ame="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Zb1hgXfrWy4"]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Zb1hgXfrWy4
[ame="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=v9EGlO632Xc"]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=v9EGlO632Xc
[ame="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3vq1rfJMLB4"]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3vq1rfJMLB4
[ame="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NH9YO_hk9_0"]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NH9YO_hk9_0
[ame="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Q2IdsskbDBs"]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Q2IdsskbDBs
[ame="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1OLx_j92o-g"]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1OLx_j92o-g
[ame="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rqvIyL0jO_U"]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rqvIyL0jO_U

เพิ่มรูปสีฝา:coolly-0033:

 

[A31067]

Re: CEFIRO A31 RB26

RB26คันแดง
-เดินสายไฟเครื่อง-ระบบแอร์เสร็จเรียบร้อย
-เกจ์วัดเหลือเก็บความเรียบร้อยอีกนิดหน่อย
-เพิ่งกลับจากจูน E MANAGE
-ไม่มีปํญหาเรื่องความร้อน
-STEP 1 จูนเบาๆบล็อครอบเครื่องที่6500 ยังไม่ปลด180 เครื่องตัวนี้วางลงไปแล้วเป็นรถที่ไปได้เร็วมากๆ ไว้รอSTEP2 เปลี่ยนกล่องเป็นของ MINE/'/S แล้วจูนเก็บรายละเอียดอีกทีด้วย E MANAGE

เดี๋ยวคืนนี้รอเจ้าของรถมาให้ความเห็นอีกทีพร้อมคลิปครับ :coolly-0033:

 

[A31067]

Re: CEFIRO A31 RB26

ใครพบเห็นเครื่อง RB26 R33GTR สวยๆ เก่าญี่ปุ่น
รบกวนชี้จุดต้องสงสัยให้ ด้วย
ช่วงนี้ Dr.DONUT ร้อนมากๆ โปรเจค
RB26 6MT ครับ:coolly-0010:

เพิ่มข้อมูลให้นิดหน่อย
เกียร์ 6MT ของ R34GTR และ SUPRA
เป็นเกียร์ของเยอรมัน
อัตราทดเกียร์เท่ากัน
1.......3.83:1
2.......2.36:1
3.......1.69:1
4.......1.31:1
5.......1:1
6........0.79:1
อัตราทดเฟืองท้าย
R34GTR........3.55:1
SUPRA..........3.27:1
น้ำหนักรถ
R34GTR.........1560kg
SUPRA...........1565kg

เฟืองท้ายNISSAN ที่ใส่A31ได้มี 3.2/3.5/3.7/3.9/4.1/4.3
เอาไว้ทดลองใส่ทีหลังว่าอัตราทดลูกไหนเหมาะสมที่สุด แต่น่าจะเป็น3.5:1ครับ:coolly-0010:

สำหรับท่านที่วางRB26
-ถ้าต้องการต้นจัดๆ ลองเล่น 4.3:1
-ถ้าชอบความเร็วปลาย ลองเล่น 3.5หรือ3.7:1:coolly-0010:


ส่วนPROJECTรถผมมีเครื่องอยู่ในมือแล้ว รอหาเกียร์อยู่ (เกียร์ในรถตอนนี้ RB25 R33GTS) ยังไม่โดนครับ:coolly-0010:

 

[A31067]

Re: CEFIRO A31 RB26

-เกียร์ 6SPEED ของ 2J หน้าตาตาม(รูป1-2)
จะลองหาหัวหมู 6SPEED ของ RB26 R34 มาลองใส่ ถ้าได้ก็จบ
แต่ถ้าไม่ได้ก็สั่งหล่อหัวหมูใหม่

-เกียร์ 6SPEED ของ 350/370Z ก็น่าเล่น(รูป5-8)
ต้องลองดูก่อนว่าสลับเสื้อท่อนหน้ากับเกียร์ RB25-26 ได้หรือเปล่า

1<SUP>st</SUP]	3.794
2<SUP>nd</SUP]	2.324
3<SUP>rd</SUP]	1.624
4<SUP>th</SUP]	1.271
5<SUP>th</SUP]	1.000
6<SUP>th</SUP]	0.794
Reverse	3.446
Final Drive	3.692

[TBODY] [/TBODY]

 

[A31067]

Re: CEFIRO A31 RB26

รูป1 ซ้าย 25 ขวา26
รูป2 26
รูป3 25

 

[A31067]

Re: CEFIRO A31 RB26

เอามาฝาก Dr.DONUT
TURBO รุ่นเดียวกัน:coolly-0033:

 

[A31067]

Re: CEFIRO A31 RB26

เอามาฝาก Dr. NUT
T78:coolly-0033:

 

[A31067]

Re: CEFIRO A31 RB26

ดูไว้เป็นแนวทางครับ
http://www.buwaldahybrids.com/speed.htm

"It/'/s got a twin turbo Nissan Skyline RB26DETT engine package. Enough said!"

While we are tempted to leave it at that, there/'/s much more to the story, and we think you/'/ll find how incredible our journey was shoehorning the twin turbo Godzilla motor into our S-chassis. In this section of our website, we will show how the engine was torn down, and rebuilt again using the highest grade parts to consistently and safely produce approximately 575 horsepower to the ground in its current trim, with an upper-end limit of 1,400 horsepower with the right internal modifications and tuning (evil grin). Building this motor was a crash course in "engine-ering." Oh, and in case you weren/'/t aware, Nissan NEVER intended this engine to go into this chassis, so read up on how several parts required custom manufacturing and/or modification from OEM to make this engine set work in this chassis!


<HR>
WARNING!

You are about to read 55 formatted pages of single-spaced text and 79 photographs, 105 paragraphs, and almost 9,000 words. If you have a short attention span, and would rather go straight to the aftermarket mods list, go here. Otherwise, enjoy the story of our high-performance buildup!


<HR>
BACKGROUND AND INTRODUCTION

When we began the build-up of our project vehicle in early February 2003, we carefully entertained the various high-performance engine options, considering several available and "mainstream" Nissan engines, such as the popular Nissan Silvia/200SX SR20DET, the Nissan 180SX CA18DET, and the twin turbo Nissan Fairlady VG30DETT. We also gave some serious thought to using a Nissan 240SX KA24DE as a platform to do a fully-built KA-T motor.

About this time, there was a proliferation of SR builds being performed, and the import tuning market was saturated with this engine type. If you were doing an S-chassis build-up, nine times out of ten it seemed the platform of choice was the SR20. Build-up article and "how-to/'/s" in every imaginable magazine, and that motion picture helped proliferate the SR/'/s madness; kids were selling their Civics to buy S13/'/s to do an SR swap. Only recently has the SR craze fallen off slightly, due in large part to more and more RB builds, and the KA-T guys bringing a new option to the table, discussed below. The SR lost its prestige and we were not in a position to help and try to rebuild it. Too risky for the cultivation of our "ultimate S-chassis" vehicle. Nothing against the SR20; it/'/s an incredible 2.0 liter engine---likely the best 2.0-liter engine ever built. Tuners has successfully sustained 700+ horsepower on fully built SR20/'/s. An incredibly good, high-rev motor. It just wasn/'/t our cup of tea.

So we looked briefly at the CA18DET platform. Its performance was good for a small displacement motor, but we knew early on that we wouldn/'/t make our power goals, and have the upgradeability for even more power later on with the 1.8 liter engine. So we scrapped the idea of doing a built CA18 (incidentally, in the three years of building this project, it seems no one does the CA18 anymore. That/'/s quite a shame, as it/'/s a good platform for decent middle-end power output with the right tuning. And importers are practically giving away CA18/'/s).

We then looked at the Nissan Fairlady (300ZX) VG30DETT, and it too was a viable choice given it/'/s wide availability in the United States, it/'/s ability to produce good top-end horsepower with a 3-liter displacement, and good aftermarket support. But there was just something about this motor that turned us off. It/'/s too hard to put a finger on. In our humble opinion, the VG30DETT just looks awkward in the S-chassis engine bay. In fact, it engulfs the engine bay. It looks almost as bad as a small block Chevy motor in a 280ZX. And the other problem was that this motor set is readily available in virtually every scrap yard in the United States, and it may seem completely off the wall, but it just wasn/'/t a platform we considered "high performance exotic." Don/'/t get us wrong, there/'/s absolutely nothing wrong with a 700 horsepower VG30 under the hood of an S14. We are sure that they/'/re tons of fun to drive. But we feel most will agree that if you had your choice of a twin turbo-charged in-line six cylinder RB26, or a V6 VG30 in an S14/'/s engine bay, the choice would be the in-line RB26DETT six cylinder. So we scrapped the big clunky V6 idea.

We then gave some serious thought to a fully-built KA-T. At this point in time, there was only a small handful of notable KA-T/'/s in the United States, and each one of these guys had seemingly spent a fortune to get to the 400 horsepower mark (well in excess of $10,000 by those we spoke to), mainly given the lack of aftermarket support. God bless these guys for jump-starting the latest high-performance trend in Nissan tuning, but back then, no one had come even close to breaking the 500 horsepower barrier, and even if they had, it probably would have cost $20,000 or more. If we had built the project car/'/s motor set in 2006, it would have been a toss-up between the current RB26DETT engine set and a KA24DET, because a 500 horsepower KA-T can be built for probably less than half an RB26 with full forged internals (in the RB26DETT/'/s defense though, 500 horsepower is just the beginning, whereas 500-600 horsepower is reaching the upper limit capability of the KA-T---this means we have upgrade room - a lot of it - in the RB26DETT). Sadly, the engine platform carries with it an unfortunate stigma as being a truck engine that has no business being turbo-charged. Even with guys breaking 600 horsepower with this motor, they remain the unfortunate bastard children of Nissan performance, as it/'/s not a "tyte SR20 engine, yo." (we are being cynical guys; we think the KA-T rocks, and we/'/ll be doing one in our red S14a in the next two to four months) So with the SR, CA, VG, and KA-T out, where do we go from here?

Right about this time, a guy from Washington State starts a little company out of his house called "Night7Racing" (we are going to not mention his name, but if you know anything about RB/'/s, you know who we/'/re talking about---let/'/s put it this way, his reputation precedes himself even today). This gentleman posted pictures of a Nissan GTS-T RB25DET engine swap in his 1991 240SX on the Nissan Infiniti Club Owners forums. We are immediately captivated by what we saw, and so were many other builders, tuners, and enthusiasts; Night7Racing had an incredible cult following after only a few months of being on various Nissan performance web forums. We perceived the Nissan Skyline GTS-T RB25DET to be the perfect solution to our problem of finding an exotic engine set that had capability of 500+ horsepower with the right modifications and expert tuning. It wasn/'/t long and we had sent a 100% direct deposit down payment into his personal checking account for the engine set, sight unseen (we just LOVE how some of these so-called "reputable" importers work---it/'/s the only high-performance industry that usually doesn/'/t keep "stock on hand" and uses YOUR money to purchase the engine set, typically at 1/4 of what you paid for it).

A month or so later, after doing even more research, we decided the *ultimate* high-end, high-performance engine platform would be the Nissan Skyline GT-R RB26DETT, as no one was really doing this swap, thanks to a world of bad information on the forums that the engine with twin turbos would not fit into the S-chassis, and the engine crossmember was different (you really have to love internet forum experts). We were prepared for whatever physical modifications needed to be done to the chassis; it/'/s only metal. So we immediately notified Night7Racing of our desire to get an RB26 package instead of an RB25, and sent another significant amount of money, direct-deposited into his personal checking account. The incredible drug called horsepower makes you do stupid things. And by the way, 75% of engine importers are shady and they just about all lie.

A few months pass waiting for our RB26DETT engine set; we can type volumes about what we learned waiting for our "low mileage and compression and leak-down tested with less than 30,000 miles" engine set, but we/'/ll let bygones be bygones. Right about May 2003, Scott Buwalda notices that the e-mail updates have stopped, and the deadline had come and gone to receive the motor set. In the meanwhile, Night7Racing moves their operations to the Chandler, Arizona area, and word got out how the owner was a teenager, had just bought a nice new house, and a brand new 350ZX. Seeing the writing on the wall, Scott immediately dispatched a good friend local to Night7/'/s new location to collect, in person, a refund of all of the monies sent for the engine set (yes, we sent our very own "Guido" to go collect from this guy). Guido was successful in getting all of our cash back. Less than a month later, he was gone---fallen off the face of the earth with something like twenty people/'/s 100% down payments for RB20/'/s and RB25/'/s. The NICO forums were erupting as folks that had sent thousands of dollars to Night7 threatened everything from lawsuits to bodily dismemberment. We felt extremely fortunate to get our money back before everything went south (literally and figuratively). Even today, there/'/s likely still several individuals that have not seen resolution to this unfortunate turn of events.

It/'/s now the beginning of June 2003, and we are back at square one with no engine set.

We do some more research (by now, we/'/re just about experts on engine importing, and almost did it ourselves, but decided it was simply too expensive to import just one engine set at a time), and made the decision to contact a resource more local to us, JDM Parts Plus in Goldsboro, North Carolina. This company (a real company with a storefront and a tax I.D.) came as personal reference from a mutual friend, Andy Butler of Zace Auto, a company that writes articles and takes the photography for editorials in car magazines in the U.K. After we discussed our options, a 100% down payment was once again sent to purchase a low-mileage, compression and leak-down tested RB26DETT, this time in a complete front clip (everything from the shifter forward on the Skyline GT-R). The anticipated delivery date was September 2003, which would have made the project car one of the first RB26DETT S-chassis vehicles in the USA, and definitely the first with twin turbochargers, as back then, the two or three existing RB26/S-chassis hybrids were mostly single turbo to clear the left hand drive steering column, as no one was yet making touge-style downpipes. One thing led to another, which led to another, then delay upon delay, then troubles with filling a full container, financial issues, and then more delays and troubles in shipping, a hold-up at customs, delays with surface transportation, and before you knew it, it was August 18, 2004, sixteen months later. Fortunately, there were so many other things going on in the car that the delay in getting the engine set didn/'/t really set us back too badly. Among other things, we spent this time purchasing all of the high-performance parts we/'/d need for the engine build-up, as well as prepping the engine bay with significant effort toward stitch welding seams, body work, and paint.

We mobilized our truck and trailer for the seven hour ride to Goldsboro from Atlanta to pick up the engine set. We arrive to find the engine set to be in fairly good shape externally, and witnessed a leak-down test of each cylinder first hand. Most importers will tell you what the leak-down testing was, but very rarely do you get to see it in person. (NOTE: remember from above, just about every importer lies---if you/'/re after an imported engine, our suggestion is to go get it in person, and request a leak-down test with you present (and don/'/t just settle from a compression test). If the importer rejects your request, find another importer).

We get the clip back to Atlanta and that weekend had Russ Goggans, local 240SX expert, come by and help remove it from its dilapidated shell. We decided the easiest route to removing the engine from the clip was to just simply cut the clip in half along the transmission tunnel and firewall, and popping the complete engine set out that way.

​

Within a few hours, the engine set was up on the stand, and ready for disassembly.

On the odometer, it read "21,200 km", or a little over 13,000 miles. We had heard about how prevalent odometer roll back was in Japan, and immediately suspected that this engine/'/s odometer had been rolled back. We weren/'/t particularly worried exactly how many miles were on the engine, because the leak-down test confirmed it was tight. But we sincerely doubt there was only 13,000 miles on this engine. And physical indicators gave it away as well: alternator and power steering belts were not OEM, and neither was the air filter. And the engine was quite filthy with grease. We had guessed about 60,000 - 75,000 miles of usage, based upon the physical appearance of the motor, and less than 20% leak-down on all cylinders (likely ring blow-by), with cylinder #6 being the second best (this cylinder is most likely to show the highest leak-down because it/'/s the first to lean out) confirmed that mileage was a non-issue. With the engine set in house, we finally closed this chapter of our build-up (and we can finally conclude our "BACKGROUND AND INTRODUCTION" section of this website article). We immediately began prepping the shop for the major overhaul of the engine.


ENGINE DISASSEMBLY, REHABILITATION, AND PERFORMANCE BUILD-UP

With the engine on the stand, we began painstakingly cataloguing and removing each part, all the while referencing the GT-R factory service manual (FSM). The insides of the motor were relatively clean; the pistons only showed a very minor amount of carbon buildup, and there was no oil sludge in the oil pan, oil pump, and oil strainer. The only thing we noticed is the oxidation of the water channels inside the block, something you/'/d expect from an iron block motor that has been sitting idle for several years. Within a few days of disassembly and cataloguing parts, the engine sat as a bare block on the engine stand. The first thing we did was to use a garden hose under high street pressure to blow out all of the engine/'/s water channels.

After a thorough degreasing, the engine block was taped off and sprayed high-temp semi-gloss black.​

With the block prepped and painted, we set off to re-assemble the RB26DETT. The first issue we had was how the intercooler air duct assembly had gone together. When we picked up the front clip, the importer had already removed the front and rear turbo chargers, air flow meters, and rear turbo charger outlet tubes, air hoses, and etc. Making matters worse was the Skyline was in a passenger side front-corner collision, so the air cleaner assembly, air ducts, resonator tube, and recirculation tube had all been badly damaged. Later we discovered that we were missing several air hoses and air tubes from the turbo charger assemblies, requiring a trip back to Goldsboro to retrieve these parts, detailed below.

With the FSM in hand, we began rebuilding the engine set "from the ground up."

NOTE: From here on in the engine build-up discussion, items that were custom fabricated are denoted in a red font, and aftermarket performance items are denoted in a yellow font.​

The first point of business was arranging all of the gaskets and seals from our Nissan Motorsports complete gasket overhaul kit on the work bench to evaluate what each gasket or seal was for. Once we had a relatively good understanding where everything went, we got deep into the rebuild process.

We decided since there was some discrepancies in how the turbo charger assemblies had gone together, and the fact that we were missing some parts from the importer, we decided to work on the cylinder head and intake side of the engine instead. We began with the cylinder head. The cylinder head was dipped in our solvent tank and thoroughly cleaned. It was re-installed to the top of the engine block using the OEM hardware, and a Nismo 1.2mm metal cylinder head gasket was installed.

The cams were left unaltered, as the Skyline GT-R guys are making excellent power with the OEM intake and exhaust cam duration. Perhaps this might be an upgrade in the future, but for the time being the cams supported our power goals of 500+ horsepower. The timing was pretty important for the camshafts however, so we opted to install a pair of HKS adjustable cam pulleys, as well as a clear Trust cam gear cover for cosmetic reasons. We also installed a brand new Nissan OEM crank angle sensor (CAS), as the original CAS didn/'/t look to be in the greatest condition, and we didn/'/t want to chance the possibility of it not working properly. The CAS was installed into the crank angle sensor bracket, which was machine-polished to a high luster. The canister tube was removed from behind the timing belt cover, as there are no emission controls on this engine.

From the cylinder head, we move to the collector assembly. The throttle chambers were thoroughly cleaned in our solvent dip tank, taped-off, and painted semi-gloss black. The throttle chamber linkage was removed and polished on a high-speed buffing wheel. All of the OEM throttle and collector assembly hardware was changed to stainless steel hardware. The throttle chambers were installed with the new throttle chamber gaskets, and the collector assembly was stripped down and sent off to be chromed.

The air chamber beneath the collector assembly was thoroughly cleaned in our solvent tank, polished, and all of the vacuum hoses were changed with new hoses sourced from the local auto parts store. All of these hoses were covered and protected in expandable stainless braided shielding. The AAC valve attached to the air chamber was removed, thoroughly cleaned, tested to be within the factory specified impedance, and was re-installed onto the air chamber with a fresh gasket.

The acceleration work unit and throttle valve switch was disassembled from the collector assembly, and the acceleration work unit was painted semi-gloss black. The valve switch/'/s contacts were cleaned, and its wiring harness was protected in expandable tubing covered in heat shrink.

Next on the agenda was the intake manifold assembly. The balance tube, fuel tube injector assembly and fuel injectors, fuel pressure regulator, water bypass connector, air regulator, intake manifold, and water outlet elbow were all disassembled and thoroughly cleaned (except for the injectors, fuel delivery tube, and pressure regulator, as they were removed and upgraded to aftermarket units). The intake manifold was dipped in our solvent tank, and thoroughly cleaned. The balance tube and water bypass tube was painted semi-gloss black and attached to the intake manifold with new o-rings or liquid gasket, as the case may be, and using stainless hardware.

The water outlet elbow/thermostat housing was polished on a high-speed buffing wheel and re-installed with new liquid gasket, sans the thermostat, as the car does not have heat and does not require a thermostat (the heater lines that would have entered the firewall were connected to each other). The air regulator was cleaned and attached to the underside of the water bypass connector, and the engine temperature sensor/'/s contacts were cleaned and it was installed into the top front of the intake manifold. All ancillary water and air tubing were covered in expandable stainless braided shielding for protection. The entire assembly was installed to the engine block with a new intake manifold gasket, using stainless hardware.

SARD 700cc injectors were installed into a custom-made fuel delivery tube that was sourced from Japan (brand/model is unknown). We purchased this fuel delivery tube for the sole reason that it had a large metric threaded input and output, which would be amicable to installing large diameter, 10-AN fuel lines, using an AN to metric fitting adapter. It seems none of the readily-available fuel delivery tubes on the market support larger fuel lines. After some searching, we found a pair of M18 to 10-AN fuel line fitting adapters, allowing us to route our custom-built stainless Russell 10-AN fuel lines. Rounding out the injector installation is a Nismo plated harness protector covering the injector harness. The oil cooler was removed and buffed on a high-speed buffing wheel, and reinstalled to the block with a new gasket, and with a high performance oil filter. The oil pressure switch was cleaned, tested, and re-installed.

When the collector assembly was received back from being chromed, it was re-assembled to the individual throttle chambers, and the accelerator work unit was re-installed and the polished throttle linkages were adjusted.

With the intake side of the engine basically complete, we set off the conquer the exhaust side. At the time, there was a still a great mystery how the twin turbo chargers had gone together with the various air inlet tubes, oil pipes and hoses, vacuum tubes, and etc. We weren/'/t there when it was all removed from the engine, so we didn/'/t have the luxury of seeing it assembled first-hand. The FSM is of limited assistance how it all goes together for some reason. Not only that, but we were missing some parts. The first thing we did was re-mobilize to Goldsboro to look around the importer/'/s shop to find our missing pieces. What we weren/'/t able to find, he graciously gave us off of another donor GT-R. With the parts we needed in hand, we attacked the exhaust side of the engine.

The reason there were no turbo chargers on this engine was because we allowed the importer to remove them to help save us some money; we had no intention of using the OEM turbo chargers. So the first thing we did was to strip and paint the OEM exhaust manifolds semi-gloss, high temp black, and re-install them with metal HKS exhaust manifold gaskets using strengthened HKS heat-treated studs.

We could wait no longer, and the HKS GT-RS twin turbo charger assemblies were bolted into place. The HKS turbo kit came with HKS/'/s strengthened actuators as well. The GT-RS turbo kit was the first in the United States according to our sources, and can support up to 400ps per turbo. The exhaust outlets were stripped and painted high-temp semi-gloss black, and installed using metal HKS exhaust outlet gaskets.

The air inlet tube and oil feed tube on each turbo charger was stripped and painted high-temp semi-gloss black and installed with new gaskets. A Spectre stainless steel braided hose connects the former turbo charger/'/s recirculation ports located immediately before the turbo charger assemblies. We had heard that the GT-RS turbo/'/s require some sort of a balance tube, so this was a good solution. All bolts and nuts used in the turbo charger assemblies were stainless steel. The water tubes were stripped and painted silver, and were routed to the turbo charger assemblies. All of the eye bolts were individually cleaned and polished on a high-speed buffing wheel and were installed using new copper washers. The oil pipes and fittings were all replaced with new pipes and fittings sourced from the local auto parts store; all oil piping was covered in expandable stainless braided shielding for protection from the heat and abrasion. The OEM vacuum tube was removed, and replaced with stainless steel braided vacuum lines that would eventually connect to a Blitz SBC-iD boost solenoid. The exhaust gas sensors were tested and re-installed.

With both "sides" off the engine complete, it was now time to delve into the engine/'/s internals.

The entire bottom end of the engine was removed and catalogued prior to the block being cleaned and painted. So now it was time to test and re-assemble the engine/'/s bottom end. We began with the pistons and connecting rods. Each piston was identified #1 - #6 at disassembly, and we were careful to not disrupt the ordering during our cleaning and rehabilitation process. We inspected the cylinder walls and noted the OEM cross-hatching, indicating that the cylinder walls were good and likely did not require machining. Each piston was individually cleaned of carbon buildup and the piston rings were removed and inspected. The rings looked good, and we didn/'/t feel as if they needed to be changed at this point. The piston ring end gap and side clearance was tested as being acceptable, so the pistons and rings, and connecting rods were re-installed into the block. Next was inspection of the crank shaft and main bearings. The main bearings looked good and showed only minimal wear, so it was decided to clean and re-use them. The crank shaft, however, was found to require a modification to ensure optimal oil pressure during high-rev situations, and during high-G cornering. The problem with the GT-R32 crank shaft is the snout on the end of the crank shaft which engages the oil pump is too short (approximately 5mm). So we brought the crank shaft to a local machine shop and had them mill the snout completely off, and install a JUN crank collar, which extends the oil pump engaging platform to approximately 12mm. While there, the machinist turned the crank shaft to 10,000 RPM to evaluate its harmonic balance and reported back that the crank was true and did not need any additional machining. The entire bottom end was re-assembled; the connecting rods, rod caps, and bearings were installed and the rod nuts tightened. The baffle plate and oil strainer was cleaned and re-installed At this point, we re-installed the rear oil seal with a new seal from our overhaul gasket kit, and re-installed the oil seal using liquid gasket.

Since the RB26DETT is an all wheel drive engine set with a transfer case mounted within the oil pan, we needed to convert the setup to rear wheel drive, and the easiest way to do this is to install an RB25DET rear wheel drive oil pan in its place. An RB25DET oil pan was sourced from a local Nissan enthusiast, and was custom modified to work in our application. More specifically, a portion of the side of the oil pan needed to be removed, and a metal plate was welded in place to clear the RB26 oil strainer/'/s mounting flange. Additionally, all of the oil pan/'/s internal baffling was removed so that the RB26DETT oil strainer would fit inside the pan. With these modifications complete, the pan was painted semi-gloss black and was bolted up to a set of existing bolt locations in the base of the engine block using stainless steel bolts. The engine was filled with Redline 20W-50 synthetic racing oil.

Moving to the front of the engine, we began to rebuild the engine/'/s oil and water pump mechanisms, and re-assembled the timing belt and tensioners. We began at the crank pulley, where the pulley was cleaned and painted, and re-installed. Next to the crank pulley, we sourced and installed a new Nismo Skyline N1 oil pump in place of the old OEM oil pump. The N1 pump reportedly allows for improved oil pressure by virtue of its improved fin design. The oil pump was installed using stainless hardware and a new gasket from our rebuild kit. We also installed a Nismo Skyline N1 water pump as well. Once again, the N1 water pump is reported to provide better water pressure by virtue of its fin design. The water pump was installed using stainless hardware and a new gasket from our rebuild kit. The water pump pulley was slightly damaged in the GT-R/'/s accident, so it was repaired and polished on a high-speed buffing wheel.

Immediately next to the water pump is a custom alternator bracket fabricated for the 240-amp high-output alternator, sourced on partial sponsorship from PowerMaxx. The alternator adjustment bar was fabricated to allow for the mounting of the large diameter GM case alternator close to the engine. The alternator was installed, its pulley machine-polished, and a new belt sourced from the local auto parts store was used to connect the alternator and crank pulleys.

On the opposite side of the motor, we fit a Nissan Skyline GT-T R34 power steering pump on a custom welded and adjustable power steering pump tension bracket. The power steering pump and steering rack was needed from an RB25DET engine set, as the RB26DETT came with the HICAS system. High-pressure and low-pressure lines were connected to the steering rack and catch can, as described below.

Immediately behind the crank pulley is the crank timing pulley, which was cleaned and re-installed, as well as the belt tensioner and idler pulleys were replaced with new Nissan OEM units. A Nismo strengthened timing belt was installed between the HKS cam gears and the crank timing pulley, and the belt was adjusted using the new belt tensioner.

Finishing up the engine, platinum-tipped spark plugs with a two steps colder rating were installed, and the six ignition coils were re-installed, paying special attention to the ignition coil harness wiring exiting the ignition coils at the back of the engine; all wiring was covered in nylon expandable tuning, and trimmed with heat shrink. The stripped down rocker covers and ornament covers were received back from being chromed, and were re-installed using the OEM rocker cover gasket. The power transistor was stripped and painted semi-gloss black and installed into the top of the center garnish ornament cover. An OEM Nissan Skyline GT-R center garnish ornament plate was installed into the center of the garnish, and a Nismo oil filler cap and o-ring was installed into the upper rocker cover.

Moving back over to the exhaust side for the final details, we re-installed the front and rear turbo charger outlet pipes that had been chrome-plated, as well as the front and rear turbo charger air hoses. On the turbo charger exhaust side, we fitted a full 80mm stainless steel Blitz twin-turbo down pipe.

We also installed portions of an aluminum APEXi suction kit, outfitted with Nissan Fairlady Z32 air flow meters, custom mass air flow sensor adapters,and HKS pod filters. All of the hose couplers installed were Vibrant Technologies high-performance silicone hose couplers. All of the silicone hose couplers were secured with high-performance Vibrant Technologies stainless steel T-bolt clamps. More information about the intercooler, intercooler piping, and blow-off valve are discussed in detail below, in the section entitled "ENGINE COMPLETION AND INSTALLATION OF PERFORMANCE HARDWARE."

The entire top and bottom engine harness was routed behind the intake plenum and to a pair of large, water-proof DIN connectors where all of the custom wiring was begun, routed to the rear of the car. No OEM wring was used beyond the conversion point in the wiring harnesses at the base of the engine set (near the clutch line). The wiring of the engine required an almost unimaginable amount of labor.

With the wiring complete, the engine was proclaimed "done"; at least until the point that we can stroke the motor and produce another few hundred horsepower! Now it/'/s time to delve into other specifics of the high-performance build-up.


TRANSMISSION

What good would all of this horsepower be without being able to convert it from crank horsepower to output shaft horsepower? Good question! We sourced an RB30ET 5-speed manual transmission (rear wheel drive only) from a good friend in New Zealand; the box came out of a Nissan Holden Commodore. The transmission was thoroughly reconditioned in New Zealand prior to being shipped over. The reconditioning included: all new Nissan OEM bearings, new OEM synchro/'/s, new 3rd gear, and all internal workings of the box adjusted and fine-tuned.

Prior to installing the transmission, a Ogura Racing Clutch (ORC) and lightened chromoly flywheel was installed. The ORC is a twin plate clutch that is known for its exceptional grabbing force; the ORC clutch was sourced from Japan. With the clutch and flywheel sorted out, the 5-speed box was installed to the engine using the OEM RB26 hardware. The RB30ET box was filled with Redline Shockproof Heavy gear oil to ensure longevity in high-rev clutch dumps.​

ENGINE AND TRANSMISSION INSTALLATION

Sunday, March 05, 2005 was the day that lives in infamy around the Buwalda Hybrids camp. It was on this day we installed this beast into our S14 chassis.

We had ten interested Nissan freaks, seven of which are from the great local 240SX community, converge on our shop that morning, all eager to see the chromed Godzilla take its final home in between the frame rails of our shiny blue project car. When you have an engine bay that required hundreds of hours of work to make it look like this...

...having ten guys to assist with the citing and installation was a GOOD thing!

The car/'/s frame was lifted 40 inches from the bottom of the core support to the floor, and we maneuvered the engine set onto a rolling furniture cart beneath the car/'/s chassis.

The car/'/s chassis was carefully lowered back down to the floor, and an engine hoist was used to lift the engine set up to the frame rails. The Top Hat Performance RB26DETT/S14 engine mounts and performance engine isolators met up perfectly with the KA24DE crossmember that was sourced from Russ Gogans for the installation. Additionally, Top Hat Performance custom-fabricated an RB30ET transmission mount for the unusual transmission used in the installation; the transmission mount boasted perfect fitment and a centered shifter in the transmission tunnel. Before long, the four crossmember bolts were installed and the engine and transmission set sat proudly in its new home.

With the engine mounted in the car/'/s chassis, this chapter of the build was closed, and a new chapter opened: completion of the performance build-up.


ENGINE COMPLETION AND INSTALLATION OF PERFORMANCE HARDWARE

With the engine in the car, we immediately began the process of finishing what we started the right way, with intake and intercooler hardware, proper engine cooling systems, fuel delivery hardware, driveline and differential hardware, exhaust hardware, engine management, and etc.

Fuel System

The first point of business was establishing the fuel delivery system for the 260SX. The OEM fuel tank was removed early on in the buildup, and a custom-built Race Safe 7-gallon fuel cell was installed into the floor of the trunk area, mounted with stainless hardware on a welded pedestal made from 1" steel square stock. The fuel cell was custom designed on a partial sponsorship to the 260SX project by Fuel Safe, and included a single pickup at the bottom rear of the tank, with a single return on the top of the left side of the cell, and a single vent line on the top of the right side of the cell.

Using Russell 10-AN stainless steel braided fuel lines and a combination of JEG/'/S and Russell blue and red anodized 10-AN fittings, the main fuel feed line from the fuel cell pickup was routed to the primary (10 micron fine) fuel filter, an Aeromotive P/N 12301, mounted to the underside of the car/'/s spare tire well. Immediately next to the fine fuel filter is the Aeromotive A1000 (P/N 11101) fuel pump, which flows 600 lbs. per hour @ 13.5 Volts and 45 PSI and features 10-AN inlet and outlet ports (capable of supporting 800 fuel injected, forced-air horsepower). The fuel pump was installed on a stainless plate steel pedestal which attaches to the rear subframe, immediately forward of the rear differential.

From the fuel pump, a custom 10-AN Russell stainless braided fuel line was routed to the front of the car along where the former fuel lines (since removed) were channeled, along the inside of the driver/'/s side frame rail.

The 10-AN line was terminated with a 10-AN elbow fitting, and converted using a 10-AN to M18 fitting, and attached to the fuel delivery tube.

On the output side of the fuel delivery tube, a 10-AN line was fabricated with elbow fittings, adapted to the fuel delivery tube/'/s output with a shallow-mount M18 metric adapting fitting sourced by Top Hat Performance, and was routed to an Aeromotive A1000 Injected Bypass Regulator, which was mounted immediately next to the intake plenum on the driver/'/s side shock tower.

Out of the regulator, a return line was fabricated from 6-AN Russell stainless steel braided line and routed along the frame rail to the trunk area, where it was converted from an 6-AN fitting to a 10-AN fitting, and attached to an Aeromotive P/N 12304 coarse fuel filter located in the floor of the trunk. From the coarse fuel filter, the 10-AN return line enters the fuel cell return bung. The fuel cell vent line was made from 8-AN Russell stainless steel braided fuel line.

As you can see, the fuel delivery system was significantly over-designed. This was done to ensure adequate fuel supply, and to allow for upgrades in the future.

Air Intake and Turbo Charger Hot Pipe

As noted previously, we installed portions of an aluminum APEXi suction kit to the vehicle/'/s air intake system. Originally intended for the GTR-32 application, the front turbo charger/'/s elbow required some minor grinding to clear the S14/'/s frame rail. The APEXi parts were sourced from Japan, all logo/'/s removed by grinding these areas of the piping, and polished on a high-speed buffing wheel. The aluminum APEXi tubing was attached to the OEM intake piping at the turbo chargers using Vibrant Technologies high-performance silicone hose couplers and stainless steel T-bolt clamps. Attached to the suction kit piping is a pair of Nissan Fairlady Z32 air flow meters, attached to the suction kit using custom mass air flow sensor adapters made from parts sourced through Top Hat Performance. The air flow meter/'/s wiring was converted from R32 to Z32 using Tomei adapter plugs; each wire was individually soldered and heat shrunk. HKS pod filters were attached to the air flow meters using high-performance Vibrant Technologies high-performance silicone hose couplers and stainless steel T-bolt clamps.

The turbo outlet "hot pipe" was stripped and chromed, and its "TWIN TURBO" logo was polished on a high-speed buffing wheel and it/'/s background painted semi-gloss black to cosmetically match other engine parts.

Engine Cooling System and Power Steering

Located immediately forward of the clear Trust cam gear cover is an aluminum three-core radiator, supplied via full sponsorship to the 260SX project by Fluidyne. The radiator was attached to the core support using the OEM brackets which had been chrome-plated. The radiator is actually for the KA24DE engine; several years ago, Scott Buwalda helped Fluidyne prototype the KA24DE 240SX radiator using the Expert 240SX as a test mule, and this radiator represents the effort to this end. It was only natural to use the radiator that a car similar to this, owned by the same person, helped bring to market. Forward of the radiator are a pair of 12" Mr. Gasket high-volume (1,400 CFM) "pusher" radiator fans, mounted to the front of the radiator, and visible from the front of the car. The fan wiring was covered in stainless steel protective shielding, and the terminals were trimmed with black heat shrink.

The radiator inlet and outlet tubes were connected to the engine using Spectre stainless steel braided radiator hoses (not OEM hoses covered in steel braiding).

The radiator overflow duties are handled by an aluminum catch can supplied on sponsorship several years ago for the Expert 240SX project by Konig Motoring Accessories. The catch can is mounted to the side of the radiator/'/s fins (right side) using a small diameter stainless steel clamp, and is connected to the radiator using Russell stainless steel braided tubing, and secured with Spectre worm gear clamps with aluminum shields to mock the look of an AN fitting.

To give balance to the engine installation, an aluminum power steering fluid reservoir catch can was mounted on the opposite side of the radiator, and was connected to the R34 GT-T power steering rack/'/s low-pressure line out using the same type of tubing and hardware used for the radiator catch can. The power steering high-pressure line was fabricated with custom piping designed by Aeroquip, where the original OEM metric fittings were cut off and welded to standard AN fittings; these custom lines connect the power steering reservoir with the power steering pump, and the power steering pump to the right hand drive steering rack. As noted above, the R34 steering assembly was used to bypass the factory HICAS system; custom brackets and belt sizing were required to accommodate this change in steering system.

Intercooler, and Blow-Off Valve System

A 3.5" to 3" Vibrant Technologies high-performance silicone reducing hose coupler and stainless steel T-bolt clamps were used to connect the turbo charger/'/s outlet piping to a mandrel-bent 3" mild steel hot pipe that was custom manufactured by Top Hat Performance, that was power-coated black and clear-coated. The hot pipe was routed down through an opening carefully cut in the forward wheel well area, immediately behind the below the headlights and down to a massive, custom-manufactured three-row intercooler which was mounted to the radiator core support. The intercooler was manufactured in Malaysia under the direct supervision of Scott Buwalda while traveling in this part of the world to proctor a seminar there in August 2004. The intercooler is a three row, bar and tube design that is 600mm X 300mm X 100mm in dimension, with 3" inlet and outlets, and capable of supporting upwards of 1,000 horsepower. The custom intercooler included welded tabs to ensure proper fitment to the vertical supports of the core support assembly.

The turbo charger hot pipe was routed down to the intercooler and connected with 3" Vibrant Technologies high-performance silicone hose couplers and stainless steel T-bolt clamps. The cold pipe was routed in much the same way with similar silicone and T-bolt hardware, up through an area cut in the front wheel well area (where the factory battery location used to be), and to the intake collector assembly. Immediately before the collector, we welded a steel HKS flange and mounted an HKS Super Sequential Blow-Off Valve to the top of the piping. The SSQV/'/s pressure lines were connected to an open spot on the intake plenum using clear tubing. And like the other piping joint connections, the cold pipe was secured to the intake plenum assembly using Vibrant Technologies high-performance silicone hose couplers and stainless steel T-bolt clamps.

As you can see, the air intake and intercooler system was significantly over-designed. This was done to ensure adequate forced air induction, and to allow for upgrades in the future.

Driveshaft and Rear Differential System

Quite possibly the most straightforward portion of the speed build-up is the drivetrain. The RB30ET transmission/'/s output shaft was connected to a custom one-piece driveshaft manufactured by a local driveline company in the Metro Atlanta area. The driveshaft is connected to a Nismo 2-way Limited Slip Differential mated up to the S14 subframe. The 2-way LSD was filled with Redline Shockproof Heavy gear oil to ensure longevity in high-rev drag launches. To stiffen the rear suspension during drag launches, SPL Parts rear subframe bushing collars were installed, amongst many other suspension upgrades noted in the Styling and Suspension section of this website.

Exhaust System

Like the drivetrain system, the exhaust system is elementary but extremely effective. As mentioned previously, an 80mm Blitz stainless steel twin turbocharger down pipe was installed to the GT-R motor set before installation. We were originally unsure if the GT-R spec. downpipe would clear the frame rail and the bottom side clearance of the lowered S14, but it cleared with ease! With the downpipe in place, we needed a way to execute the remainder of the 80mm exhaust system. We turned to BRM Motorsports, and they provided via partial sponsorship their stainless steel S14 mandrel bent exhaust system, to connect thelocation of the former catalytic converter, all the way to the rear opening of the Vertex back valance. The BRM exhaust system was fitted with a Magnaflow 3" inlet and 4" outlet can for a deep, throaty sound. The exhaust system was hung with new isolators and we were left with a small section between the downpipe and the remainder of the exhaust. So the last item of business was connecting the RB26DETT downpipe with the S14 "cat back" exhaust with a custom test pipe manufactured by Top Hat Performance to join the two dissimilar pipes. This fitment was especially critical since the floor pan (where the former catalytic converter had been) was cut out and a new pan welded in its place to allow for the passenger seat to be bolted directly to the floor; the test pipe was built in such a way to clear the new floor pan with a tolerance of approximately 1/4".

 

[A31067]

Re: CEFIRO A31 RB26

นำเสนอให้พี่แดงไว้พิจารณา ทำแบบนี้เลย
หน้าแปลนแอร์โฟล+กรอง มีอยู่ในมือแล้ว
ส่งPOWDER COATอย่างเดียวครับ:coolly-0033:

 

[A31067]

Re: CEFIRO A31 RB26

เอามาฝาก Dr.DONUT
ยึดคอล์ย MSD ตรงนี้
สายหัวเทียนจะได้ยาวเท่ากันทุกเส้น

 

[A31067]

Re: CEFIRO A31 RB26

ไม่หลับไม่นอนรึไงครับ มัวแต่นั่งหาของอะไรอยู่อีกล่ะ

กำลังคุย M กับ Dr.DONUT
วางแผนการ์ณร้ายเกียวกับ RB26
เช่นลูกเคลือบเซรามิค อินเตอร์5นึ้ว คอล์ยซิ่ง:coolly-0010:

 

[A31067]

Re: CEFIRO A31 RB26

:coolly-0033:

 

[A31067]

Re: CEFIRO A31 RB26

:coolly-0033:

 

[A31067]

มาอีกแล้ววุ๊ย ลากมาเลย
ลองสตาร์ทแล้วเครื่องฟิต สตาร์ทติดง่าย
Dr.ไก่ กำลังถ่ายน้ำมันเครื่องอยู่:coolly-0010:

 

[A31067]

ฝาที่ส่งทำสีดำเงา ท่อที่ส่งปัดเงา มาส่งแล้ว
วันเสาร์จะทำการเปลี่ยน เสร็จแล้วจะถ่ายรูปมาให้ชมครับ

 

[A31067]

เพิ่งกลับจากจูนคันแดง Dr.NUT
เจ้าของบอก"น้าๆปลดรอบให้ผมหน่อย"
เลยทำการใส่กล่องโมนอก และ ปลดรอบไปตัดที่7000
สรุปขับกันมันส์มากๆ แต่ยังคุมอาการรถได้ง่ายเหมือนเดิม
ซัดไปซัดมา คลัชเริ่มมีอาการ
เดี๋ยวคิวว่างวันไหนจะจัด คลัชOS 3แผ่นให้:coolly-0033:

วันนี้ Dr.NUT
มาใส่เซนเซอร์วัดความร้อน พอใส่เสร็จมีพี่คนนึงเข้ามาที่อู่พอดี
เลยให้พี่ไปลองรถกับDr.NUT กัน2คน
ขากลับมา ผล.............โดนRB26อีก1คัน
ตอนไปจูนเลยเลี้ยงข้าวไป1มื้อ